"I was just reading the different tips you have for stitchers, and I thought I'd share what I came up with for carrying my stitching projects with me (I do a lot of waiting around for piano lessons, soccer practices, etc.): I use the clear vinyl zippered bags that new pillowcases/linens come in. They are sturdy, and just the right size. I used to save them bc they seemed like they'd come in handy some day, and sure enough, they did.Ê" -- Paulette
"When I have just a little bit of thread left and only a stitch or two remaining, I turn my needle around and put it in the next hole with the eye end of the needle first. This is much easier than trying to re-thread a needle that is partially stuck into my fabric if I put the needle in the normal way. This also works well when achoring off the end of the thread that is shorter than the needle." -- Liz
"After applying brown paper to back of frame as explained in your article, if you spray it with water just to dampen it or use a wet rag, it will dry on the frame tight as a drum."
A reader had a wonderful piece bleed (red!) while washing it. She did let it dry, but here is some advice she got back that worked for her: "Most sincere commiseration on the appearance of red dye in your needlework fabric. DO NOT DESPAIR. It is possible to remove the dye just put the needlework back in the water bath and soak for several days. To the water bath you should add Orvis and either BIZ or CLOROX II. Let the needlework soak for days until all the dye is gone from the background fabric. It should come out. Similar situations have happened to me and I have had good success with spot/dye removal. Yes, even after I have dried and ironed the needlework fabric."
"You know all those wonderful threads you trim from your needlework and toss in the trash basket? Well, about 2 years ago I purchased a small, round clear glass bowl (about 6" tall) that I keep by my stitching chair. Each time I clip a thread, I put it in this bowl rather than the trash. It has turned into an instant memory bowl ... one look puts a smile on my face remembering each piece of stitchery I've completed (or not completed). And it's so lovely to look at with all the beautiful colors and glittery metallics." -- Linda
"I keep my leftover thread in an armchair caddy. It has a fabric basket for scraps on one side and weights on the other and hangs over the arm of my chair. I collect the threads most of year and then in the spring I put them in a mesh bag (like the ones onions come in). I hand the bag on my backyard birdfeeder and let the birds build their spring nests with the colorful threads and small scraps of material." -- Kerri Manley "I've found the perfect way to carry my projects. I use envelopes from Lillian Vernon, but I bought the Xerox brand (Xdoc-it #858 Organizer) at an office supply store. My large one (about 10 by 13 inches) has a handle and opens like a briefcase (or purse with flap). I can carry my magnetic board, regular sized charts and my fabric and floss. It's EXTREMELY light weight and works beautifully. I also have one in the letter size and put my folded fabric, scissors, tools etc., in that one and place it in the larger one. I even have room for the rings and bags of floss for each project, and they're sometimes pretty big." (Theresa's note: Diane sent a picture from a catalog -- these are colored transparent folders/envelopes with a string to tie them closed. You might poke around your local office supply store to see what they have that's similar.) -- Diane Rupp
" When doing 1/4 stitches on aida cloth, I use a straight pin to start a hole in the middle of the block. Then it is easier to put my threaded needle through. It takes a little longer, but it beats fighting to split the threads apart!" -- Kari
"Just wanted to tell you that I found thin, stretchy white cotton knit gloves at Wal-Mart in the cosmetics section. They are not expensive and are designed to wear with messy hand creams overnight. They are much easier to use than some old "gracious lady" cotton gloves I have had for 30 years. I use them when stitching with silk threads." -- EllenAnne Falk
"When working with the large patterns with lots of folds, take light-weight scotch tape and run the tape the fold lines along BACK of the pattern, cross the tape at the corners of the folds (so you'll have a double thinkness tape at that stress point). The tape is light enough that you can still fold the pattern back up, but it adds enough support so that the pattern doesn't tare or get that "fray" look around the folds. Also, if there is enough border, I'll fold a half inch or so of the tape over on the ends of the folds to re-enforce those stress points too. On a side note, do not run the tape on the pattern side - over time it will yellow and if you want to use the pattern again, you might not be able to see through it." -- Pam
"I thought I'd tell you a little tip that keeps my 5-year-old busy (while my 3-year old has a nap) so I can stitch quietly. I get a large bowl and pour my MH beads in it. I thread the needle and my daughter loves to string my beads for me. If she drops any, they just fall into the bowl. Having the beads on a string keeps them under control and from spilling when you use them later. Also, it makes it easier to do a rough count when starting a project to know if you have enough... avoiding buying too many." -- Cheryl K.
"I noticed that a large number of your articles relate to cleaning needlework after stitching. May years ago I took a class with the local EGA. The teacher ( i don't remember who)wore white cotten gloved with the finger tips cut off -- basically a palm glove -- on both hands. I started using this method whenever I hand stitch anything. I have collected white gloves at yard sales for years. I used to stitch fancy finished edges on the fingers, but now I just serge the edges after I cut them to a comfortable length for me. My local needlework shop lady has commented on how clean I keep everything.....While I do not do as much x-stitch as I used to, I have found that this technique is comfortable and if you have arthritis or other circulation issues, the glove helps keep the hands warm. I just toss them in to wash every 10 or so hours of stitching. I love the gloves with bows, and other decoration. Fashionable stitching!!!" -- Connie Rosenlieb Hudgeons "Was just reading your Stitchers' and Framers' Secrets page, and wish to share an inspiration I had just last night while sitting in a restaurant; to make a lampshade, stitch four, five, or six pieces of cross stitch all on the same sized rectangle, stitch them down the sides to form a square, pentagon, or hectagon respectively and decorate the bottom edge with a tassle in each corner, or fringe, or beading, and hang with lengths of cotton or cord from each top corner to the ceiling rose." -- Carol
"i was told by a long time stitcher that to avoid heavy creasing in your fabrics, to do this: after washing your finished work, take the wet work, and gently roll it in a towel, pressing gently to make the towel absorb the excess water (this part does work great). next, roll the damp piece in another, clean towel, and put the whole thing in the freezer overnight. the next day, take the bundle out of the freezer, and VERY carefully unroll, so as not to pull on the stitching (and don't use terry towels, beads and metallics may stick/freeze to the loops). the moisture in the fabric is frozen, and the freezing and rolling supposedly eliminates the wrinkles. the trick to the whole process is to iron the frozen piece, *no* steam - as the iron heats the piece, the frozen water provides the steam, and you get no wrinkles! i did actually try this method on a finished piece, Deco Spirits (Mirabilia). i didn't find any wrinkles in the linen, and the metallic threads seemed to make it through the whole process just fine. looked great, in fact." -- Bev (** Note from Theresa -- I haven't tried this myself, and I'd be careful especially if you use glass beads or charms which might crack due to temperature changes.)
"I thought that I'd write to you to let you in on an idea that turned out very well for me (and my daughter). I did a small "Precious Moments" ballerina cross stitch for my daughter. Even with the white matting it looked too plain. So I painted the slant (bevel) of the matting with light purple to match the tutu of the figure in the piture. That was nice but I thought it still needed something, so I took 2 metalic ballet slipper stickers that my daughter already had and put them in opposite corners of each other over the mat. (I didn't think of this until I had the picture framed so I just put them on the outside of the glass). It turned out really nice. I use the kids stickers to decorate a lot of craft items for their bedrooms. Since my kids are young (ages 2 and 4) they like to use the stickers and it's an inexpensive way to decorate." -- Patti
"Sometimes I find that I have less than a needle length's thread when I am on or near the last stitch so what I do is unthread the needle, push the needle where it ought to go (including behind threads if is the last stitch), leave the needle eye still on the top side, then re-thread it (tweezers help here as my fingers are big), and finally pull the needle gently through. Works a treat. Cheers, Alita"
"Something fun thing I've done with mats is paint the bevels. You can buy scotch tape that doesn't stick down tight (it's kind of like post-it pad quality adhesive). You tape the mat where your bevel would be on the front or your mat. Cut your window. Then, with any color of acrylic paint, paint the bevel. Let it dry. Then, peel the tape off, and your bevel has a nice clean edge. This is especially nice with a white/off-white mat -- you can pick up a color in the piece without adding another mat (the simple look can be wonderful -- I've got a sampler matted with a cream mat and a purple bevel). You can also try this with a mat that's pre-cut (or cut for you by your framer). Use the same tape and CAREFULLY tape on the front of the mat right up to where the bevel starts. Then, paint as suggested, let dry, and remove the tape. It's a little trickier this way, but it can be done." -- Theresa
"There's a product called Orvus made by Proctor & Gamble and sold in farm supply stores, I think it's used to wash livestock. Anyway, a lot of the stitchers here use it to wash their stitched pieces (providing fabric & fiber will tolerate washing). The product is thick, kind of like cold cream, you dissolve about a tablespoonful in a little medium hot to warm water, then once its dissolved add cold water 1/2 to 3/4 gallon. Swish the linen or whatever around, if very soiled allow it to soak a bit, then rinse, rinse, rinse in cool/cold water." --Ginny Rohlfing, Downers Grove, IL
Another comment: "I have used Orvus; many times; terrific. Ironing frozen also works well; I use it often. If it's for a finished piece, tho, I iron first and then add beads gingerly; then touch up with the iron where needed." -- Martha Beth Lewis
"Mother passed on this hint. To ensure that all the soap is truly out of fabrics, use CALGON. Sometimes it can be found in a liquid state, but not often. If one cannot find Calgon in the laundry aisle, try the bath aisle. (Pass by the Calgon with oil or beads of course.) It is amazing how much suds are in Calgon rinse water. She uses it on her clothes as well as church altar linens." -- Judy
Note: I have not personally tried these above products. These suggestions come from readers. -- Theresa
Do you have a suggestion on how to keep metallic filament from flying all over the place, and/or to keep it from breaking? --Louisa Bennett
For starters, don't use as much fillament as you'd normally use floss. Working with short lengths is one way to combat breakage and knotting. Stitch a little more slowly than normal too.
There is a way I've seen in books (it's easier to explain with an illustration) to loop your thread through the eye of your needle, and secure it (like a knot, but not) that will keep it from slipping through your needle while you stitch. Basically, you fold your thread in half, stick the "half point" through the eye, and pull the loose ends of your thread through that loop.
If you can't understand these instructions, try to find directions in a needlework book. This method works for me.
Another tip comes from Susan Kaplowitz: "I found that when working with metallic threads, I put some clear nailpolish on both ends and that keeps it from fraying."
Have you ever pricked your finger and bled on a piece? A little trick we stitchers use: Spit on it!
"I know this sounds really gross, but your OWN spit will take out your OWN BLOOD. (something to do with enzymes) so...don't be spitting on other people's work." -- from Cheryl Kienzle, Nova Scotia, Canada
"Something that I learned from my physical therapist while I was sitting icing my knee after a session, cross stitching, and pricked my finger is to use hydrogen peroxide to remove blood stains. Make sure you blot with a towel from the top with another towel underneath to absorb the liquids. It removed a blood spot off of prairie linen on which I had almost completed Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum's Earthdancer." -- Susan Simko, Duke University
(**Note: I have not tried either one of these, and would personally recommend you immediately soak in cold water until the stain comes out. Stains may also come out in the sun. The acid in spit, and the harmful rays of the sun are not good for your piece, and I suppose all of those chemicals they put in the water nowadays aren't the best either. Always be careful when cleaning your piece!) -- Theresa Venette
"I just read "Help, I'm bleeding on my piece!" and your caution at the end on your Stitchers' and Framers' Secrets page. When I did a lot of photography I always used distilled water as a final rinse. It was the only way I could get my negatives free from deposits and spots. You may want to consider doing this with your needlework. A final rinse in distilled water will take out a lot of whatever chemicals and small particles that are in your water." -- Deb B
"Personal experience (as a veterinarian) has taught me that cold water and prompt attention are the best fixes for blood spots. Peroxide changes the chemical nature of blood so that if it doesn't all come out with the peroxide, it is exponentially more difficult to remove and usually leaves a brown stain. I would also worry about the long-term effects on my fabric. Just remember, hydrogen peroxide is often one of the ingredients in hair coloring...I would be very leery of using it on a piece I had invested so much time in." -- Cheryl
Can't do French Knots?
French knots can be frustrating, especially when you don't do them often enough to get proficient at handling those little buggers. Sometimes if I have a lot of little French Knots on a project I use little glass beads in their place. Tack them down with a cross stitch with corresponding-color thread. They look especially cute as berries or little flowers, buttons, accents ... You can get a couple hundred glass beads for a buck and a half at most craft stores. You may need to buy a beading needle to get them on your piece. --Theresa
Hide those loose strings!
If you aren't very good about keeping loose strings hidden and tacked down on the back of your piece, and you are sick of those little strings showing through the front of your fabric after they are framed, tell your framer to put a piece of dark matboard directly underneath your piece. Of course you wouldn't want to put black under white, but try a shade or two darker than your fabric color. It's like magic.
Remember, though, mat surface papers may not be acid free, and you will probably get charged a bit for this extra material. From Theresa Venette, Minnesota
Keep your skin on
If you are planning on travelling with a project but are afraid of those sharp needlework scissors, here's a tip from me. Sometimes I travel with a nail clipper (a clean one) to snip threads for my needlework. When I'm not using them, I fold them up and tuck them away. No worries about cutting myself, others, or the car upholstery. From Theresa Venette, Minnesota
I'd have to win the lottery
If you have a closet full of finished, but yet unframed, needlework pieces, don't waste your talent! There are a number of inexpensive ways to get those pieces out where everyone can see them without spending a fortune on picture framing.
If you want to frame, try finding a standard sized frame your piece will fit in. You can fudge a little bit by having a mat cut to make your piece expand to fill the space. Standard size frames can be more than 50% cheaper than custom ones. Look for frames at garage sales, crazy days sales and antique or second hand shops. Again, much cheaper than custom framing. Cute mats can really dress up a boring frame, so don't worry if your find is not the greatest.
Consider framing alternatives. A pillow, wall-hanging with a brass rod, or even twig from a tree, a table runner, a Christmas stocking or ornament, a bun warmer and needle roll . . . all are inexpensive, and exciting, alternatives to custom framing. You're running out of wall space anyway, right?
One other thing you could do is give stitched, but unframed pieces to friends as wedding, Christmas, anniversary, housewarming and birthday gifts. They might pick out different framing than you would anyway. It's still a much-appreciated gift. Some people give a small framing gift certificate along with finished pieces. It's a nice way to share your wares without letting them collect dust in your closet. From Theresa Venette, Minnesota
Instead of bell pull hardware, wooden dowels from a craft shop can be put on top, fringe the bottom, as for placemats and napkins. Hang on a cord or ribbon from a fabric or craft store.
Stitch on waste cavas onto a sweatshirt etc.
Make a photo album, or other book, cover. I'm contemplating attempting this for a friend's baby. I saw it done for a wedding album. From Lisa Sweeney, North Carolina
© 2007 Theresa Venette. Articles on this site may be reproduced in needlework group newsletters or other handouts with permission of author and proper attribution. Send questions, comments and suggestions to: xspeddler@yahoo.com